Valparaiso....paradise in color

This blog post is well overdue, but better late than never.... Saturday a week ago I went with another student from ECELA to Valparaiso, or Valpo as it's known for sure. The other student was Ken, a 23 year old from a southern state in the USA. He had previously had big rings in his earlobes, currently letting them heal (with reparative surgery planned), a chain smoker, a bit overweight - the hills in Valpo were a bit more of a challenge for him than for me ... But overall a nice kid and an enjoyable day.

The visit began in Viña at Castillo Wulff. Inside was an exhibit of plants and tables from the Viña del Mar garden club. I soon discovered that Ken knew a lot about plants (I must admit surprise here). The things these ladies did with plants were amazing - living, breathing decorations. I want plants like that! The cool part about the Castillo was the glass floor that you could look through and see the ocean crashing on the rocks below.









After this, we walked to the Reloj de Flores - the flower clock. I don't have much to say other than this clock is featured on most Viña postcards.



Then onto Valpo. In Chile, there are many forms of transportation for the traveling public. One of which is a Migro - which is a small bus that appears to be about 30+ years. The Migros are great - the drivers are fast, perhaps a bit reckless and they get you just about everywhere you want to go. The journey from Viña to Valpo costs 350 - 400 Chilean Pesos (400 if you are levied a "gringo tax") which is just under a dollar.



We took a Migro into Valpo and set off on foot to find the acensor (funicular) to Cerro Bellavista. A Cerro is a hill and most of the neighborhoods (barrios) in Valpo are in the cerros. Bellavista is famous for the open air museum and Pablo Neruda's house. The open air museum consists of a series of streets with amazing graffiti. The pictures are bright and vivid and the houses match with their bright colors as well. As the funicular was closed, we climbed about 100 stairs up to the Cerro and explored the streets admiring the artwork, heading further and further upwards to Pablo Neruda's house. Neruda had three homes in Chile - one in Santiago, another in Valpo and the last one in Isla Negra. Looking out (and down) from the top of the Cerro, it was clear as to why he built one here. The view was amazing. The house was said by some to look like a ship, but only by a real stretch of the imagination.















A this point we headed back downhill to town.... And off to our next destination (with a quick lunch break) - the double Cerro experience: Cerro Conception and Cerro Alegre. We took the short Funicular up. This pair of Cerros was by far my favorite. First of all we met a friendly ice cream vendor who gave us a bunch of samples and advice on what to see. Secondly the houses looked like they were straight out of the 1920's. I loved their charm. There was a church that looked like it would have been interesting, but it was closed for reconstruction. The only negative of this area was when I got trapped in a small gateway while two street dogs fought each other inches from me.









The final Cerro we visited was Artilleria. It was not the one we wanted - well Ken wanted to go to the longest funicular, but we couldn't get there the way we wanted, so we thought if we went up the other Cerro, we'd be able to cut across. The stairs up were colorful, painted with many messages and designs. Up top we saw the longest funicular that Ken wanted to ride. It was closed. So we rode the funicular of Artilleria down. It was a fairly long funicular as well. Like the stairs it was decorated.









To conclude our day we wanted to go eat at the fish market restaurants, but they were closed, so we went back to Viña and had bad Tex-Mex.



- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Valparaiso, Chile

San Antonio!

I am a San Antonian - born and raised. Every time I book a ticket to San Antonio online, I am given a choice of San Antonio, TX or San Antonio, Chile. Never did I ever think I'd one day go to San Antonio, Chile.
It started like this.....about a week ago I looked at map and realize just how close I was to San Antonio - so I searched Couch Surfing for any San Antonians - of the Chilean variety. There were four and the most recent login was about a month ago. So I posted a question to the general Chile forum. (it might be worth noting that I'd searched the Internet and come up with very little touristic information) The response to my question on CS was dismal - everyone said it wasn't worth it. So I threw the idea out of my mind and focused on Isla Negra. A few days later, a CS member from France, Cassandre, sent me a message asking if I wanted to day trip to the Isla Negra / San Antonio together. And that is how I ended up going to San Antonio today.....
Maybe I am biased, but I loved my experience in San Antonio! Actually Cass really liked it to, so I'm not totally biased.
It started with a pastry. We bought and split a pastry called Colegial. The conversation with the sales girl went much like this: (en Español)
Us: What is this?
Her: Colegial.
Us: Yes, but what is Colegial?
Her: Cake.
Us: What kind of a flavor does it have?
Her: It tastes like Colegial.
So basically we had no idea what we were getting....but it was good! I'm pretty sure it was sweetened with Manjar.


We walked around a bit and the impression of San Antonio was just so-so.... But then we decided to find the beach...
Well actually we found the port.
We found the life of San Antonio! The port had vendors, performers, lots of people, a fish market and more...












The most surprising part though were the animals! Pelicans and seals! I took about a million photos.... They were crowded around the port, eating fish heads thrown to them by the fish market, sleeping and playing. The seals (or are they sea lions - I'm not sure of the difference) are amazing creatures! Huge, loud and expressive... You knew when they were happy and when they were not, I heard a noise something between a growl and a roar and saw teeth that could probably take off a hand without even trying. But mostly they appeared to me to be content and cute.

Cassandre and I took a boat tour of the harbor. It was really interesting and we learned a lot. For example, San Antonio was the first major port of Chile. The port of San Antonio is the third largest economic industry of Chile (copper is number 1 - no idea about 2) and was integral in rebuilding after the earthquakes of 1985 and 2010 because it sustained little to no damage. It's an active port. Fishermen fish for fish, frequently catching anchovies, barges come in from around the world carrying products for the entire continent and tourists appreciate the blue water and beautiful view. Yes, San Antonio is worth visiting!












Now that I have visited two San Antonios, I want to visit the other ones in the world. I know there are at least 3 in South America - Chile, Argentina and ummm... Bolivia? Guess I need to make some travel plans!

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:San Antonio de Chile

Fútbol fever!

Ask anyone who knows me, I'm not a big sports fan..... I can't stand the stoooper bowl, and baseball bores me - BUT give me an international soccer (or as the rest of the world says: football, Fußball, fútbol etc) game and I am engrossed! It's easy I cheer for: Germany, the home team of where I am, or the hosting country's team. Oh yes occasionally I cheer for the USA as well, but let's face it, it's just not our country's strongest sport....

I've been privileged enough to be in Germany during World Cup 2006, Austria during the European Cup of 2008 and South Africa during the World Cup of 2010. right now I am in Chile during Copa Americas which is being held in Argentina. That's practically next door!

Tonight was the Chile vs Mexico game. It is said that Mexico sends it's B-team to this tournament. It is also said that whichever team wins the finale is guaranteed a spot at the World Cup.

A group of us from Ecela went to El Bar de Moe. (in case you are wondering, it's Moe as in Moe Syzlak from The Simpsons.) The place was packed. We were sitting outside in the cold, not minding the cold air. The beers were huge (1Liter bottles) and cheap..... The environment was exciting...

The game began slow.....after a bit the Chileans around us began their cheer:

Chee Chee Chee Elleh Elleh Viva Chile!

Mexico scored.
We cheered louder.

And about 60 min into the game, Chile scored!!!!
The fans went wild. Jumping and stomping. I wondered if the balcony we were on would hold..... Excitement filled the air and you could feel the energy from person to person.

About 82 min into the game Chile scored again!!!!! Chile 2 v México 1. The crowd broke into songs and cheers again...

(feet stomping) Olé Olé Olé Olé! Chile! Chile!

Now it was up to the team to block Mexico from any more goals, to hold their lead for the last few minutes.... The clock hits 90. 3 minutes are added on because of penalties/yellow cards earlier in the game... 1 minute, 2 minutes, 2 minutes 52 seconds......Mexico goes for it. A silence falls over the bar as breaths are held. Chile blocks! Chile runs the ball away from the goal. Chile has won!!!!!

Ganamos!!!!!

A flag waves, people cheer and sing, car horns honk....

It's impossible not to be taken in by the reverie, by the enthusiasm and excitement! I love football - just not the American variety!




- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:El Bar de Moe, Viña Del Mar, Chile

A day at the beach

Today was a beautiful, sunny winter's day, so I bundled myself up and went to the beach.....









I've always had the idea that the beach was a summer place, deserted in winter - but in Viña it has a life of it's own in winter. Complete with a boatload of characters.....

- swimmers: yes that's right, people actually swim in this weather! Today I saw a young man in his blue underwear, wet from the water - walking all around. A girl in her bikini, enjoying the water and teenagers with their pants rolled up, letting the waves lap at their feet.

- vendors: their booths set up, or just a sheet on the ground.... Selling handicrafts, food, and more. They range from old to young, they are male and female, friendly and gruff..... Some sit there and make more of their products.... But today most were listening to their radios: Copa America in Argentina.

- couples: the beach is a paradise for couples to cuddle up to each other...

- friends and family: Eating, laughing, playing....taking photos - enjoying the beach. Some flying kites...

- the sand artist: always there, sculpting in the sand. Today he was working on an alligator (or maybe a crocodile)

- solitary folk: people such as myself, sitting enjoying the view, the feel of the sun....watching the waves, reading a book, napping

- the dogs: like Santiago, Viña has a ton of strays as well. They enjoy running and playing on the beach and resting in the sun.



A lovely day at the beach....
Just behind the beach is a grassy area where students play soccer and parents buy a pony ride for their young kids. Typically the kid is put up on the pony (small horse - slightly bigger than a pony really) and is walked around for a ride.
I don't know what exactly happened, I was sitting on the bench, engrossed in a book when I heard screaming. I turned to look and saw one of those aforementioned ponies running wild. Had it been spooked? Where was the man who typically leads it around? A young boy was on it's back. He was about 4 or 5 years old and terrified. As the pony ran wildly, he couldn't hang on, and he fell off. The horse kept running. People watched, stunned for a moment, then ran to the boy. A man flying a kite let his kite go and ran to help. Others tried to catch the horse - it ran and ran, towards the road. The boy lay on the ground, not moving, not crying. The boys Mother began to scream in terror and ran to her son. At this point the boy began to scream and cry out. He was moved to the grass. The horse continued running, at first I thought it was going to run right into the high trafficked road, but it knew better and turned away. He turned and ran towards a group of people, who jumped in a panic out of the way, but the horse veered right and ran on. He ran a distance, out of sight.
First aid was being administered to the boy who luckily lived through the ordeal with nothing more than bruises and scratches (gaining perhaps a fear of horses?) and was picked up and comforted by his mother, who herself needed comforting. In the distance I saw the horse was captured and tied up to a tree.
After a few minutes, people went back to doing what they had been doing before, the man with the kite went to look for his kite, and to my utter disbelief a man comes by walking a pony (not the same one) with a little girl on its back.... Life has returned to normal on the beach.

The afternoon ended and the sun set, another spectacular sunset in Viña.










- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:San Martín,Viña del Mar,Chile

Meanwhile back in Santiago....

Catching up on some things I want to say about Santiago.....
I was walking around downtown near the governmental buildings and I saw a very striking mural on a wall. what really caught my attention was the fact that looking at the mural it depicted the buildings and statue facing it. I thought "wow, cool" but didn't know why it was like that.
Fast forward a few days, I'm on the tour.... The tour guide takes us into the city hall and has us look up through the slats in the roof at this mural. He points out the three locations depicted on the mural: the supreme court, the governmental offices building and a poor neighborhood in the middle. Running through the middle is a river. Now it all appears black and white, but originally it was red. The redness signifies blood. The mural represents the plight of the poor. This mural is from the 1970's and stands still today as a reminder.....















- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Santiago, Chile

A pack a day

Flying over Santiago, as I said in an earlier post - I thought I was seeing a beautiful fog over the city, but actually it was smog.
Walking around in town, you don't see it from the ground level, but oh you feel it...... I sneezed frequently and my eyes were irritated at times.
When I watched the sunset from above, I could see it settling over the city. The night sky lit up in beautiful colors - pollutants do that to a sunset/sunrise!






During the tour our tour guide talked about the smog. He told us that breathing the air in Santiago is like smoking a pack of cigarettes a day.
Then he told us the following (joke?):
Why do so many Santiagans smoke?
Because they need the cigarette filter to filter out the pollutants in the air!

But after it rains, the air is crisp and the sky is clear - these days provide a short relief and allow the blue skies above to be seen....
Santiago is lovely - smog or no!


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Santiago, Chile

Sunset on the beach

Living next to the beach I try and take advantage of it.....the sound of the waves, the beauty of the water and the amazing sunsets. I have 2 weeks of this privilege. Oh it is amazing.





My favorite time of day is sunset. The sun begins it's descent and the water is painted orange. Despite the cold, the beach is alive...kids play soccer barefoot. In the sand, vendors sell their wares, couples cuddle up to each other, tourists take photos and locals run along the shore. A brave few (or a crazy few) go in the water...
The water is painted orange, blue and white. The horizon begins to glow. Birds circle overhead in the sky that is becoming deep blue - almost the color of a sunny summer's day. Occasionally birds dive into the frigid water for food. The sun sinks. Ships come in and out of view on the horizon, gliding silently in and out of view. They are barges, laden with cargo containers bound for ports unknown. As I look at them, a familiar tune passes through my head
.....out of my window looking in the night, I can see the barges flickering light....barges I would like to go with you, I would like to sail the ocean blue......
Crash! The sound of the strong waves cresting brings me back to the scene at hand. Crash! The waves pound the shore as the sunsets further. The water no longer has an intense line of orange, but rather a general orange tint. The horizon glows orange, more and more intensely. The sky is darkening, blue slowly changing to black.
The people begin to depart, the lights on shore twinkle more intensely, the sky glows bright, but almost suddenly, as if someone blew out a candle, the sky is dark, and I am left with the sound of the waves and the lights of the barges and of the city behind me. Sun has set on another day in Viña del Mar, Chile.












- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:San Martín,Viña del Mar,Chile